Thoughts & Opinions

Going Back to Zimbabwe and Homeland, Ethiopia - Jan/Feb 2007

Details: Created: Tuesday, 02 January 2007 02:52

Editor: Daniel currently lives with his wife, Jeanette in Des Moines, Washington. He has been a member of NWSSA since July, 2000.

From December 26, 2005 to January 20, 2006, my wife and I traveled to Zimbabwe and Ethiopia.

As soon as our flight landed in Harare, Zimbabwe, we were greeted by beautiful works of art, both inside and outside the airport. We immediately knew we were in sculpture heaven. On the ride from the airport to the city, I was amazed to see the many carvers working under shade trees on the side of the road.

In fact, I began to believe that we might find carvers under every tree. Most of the carvers are members of the Shona tribe in Zimbabwe. These beautiful people are known for their wood and stone carvings. Since opal and serpentine (also called “spring stone”) are abundant in Zimbabwe, most of the works are carved out of these two stones. As you know, opal is a lot softer than spring stone. Yet most of them do not use any power tools. Even their chisels are handmade. I was saddened to see that none of them wore safety gear for protection.

The Shona carvers I met explained that they inherited their carving skill from their forefathers. Most carvers intend and believe they have a responsibility to pass

on the art to the next generation. This may explain why we found the same themes, even identical sculptures at different locations. Regardless, we did learn so much in that short time and we loved it. We were fortunate to purchase some small sculptures from the carvers we met in Harare and at Victoria Falls. Unfortunately, our travels prevented us from buying larger pieces.

Though we only had one week in Zimbabwe, we left with many beautiful memories of both the people we met and the country and its art.

The main reason for our trip to Africa was to visit Ethiopia, my birthplace, which I hadn’t seen for more than 20 years. Though Ethiopia is known by most Americans for the images broadcast during the famine of the 1980s, Ethiopia is a country of generous people who cherish their history and culture.

There is no question that Ethiopia is one of the poorest nations in the world; at the same time, she has a rich history that goes back 2,000 years.

Many Ethiopians believe that the Ark of the Covenant (you may recall the movie Indiana Jones and the journey to find the Ark of the Covenant) has been and remains in Ethiopia. Ethiopians believe without a doubt that the Ark is in a temple in the city of Axum, in the northern part of Ethiopia. The temple is guarded day and night, and no one is allowed to go inside. We visited the temple grounds and went as far as we were allowed. Nearby, we also visited the ruins of what was believed to have been the palace and bath of the Queen of Sheba.

In the center of the city of Axum, we visited the site of huge obelisks, each carved and erected out of one solid granite rock. It was mind boggling to think that these rocks have been standing for centuries. I cannot help but wonder how each obelisk had been carved perfectly out of one rock, during a time before the existence of power tools. Somehow, even without cranes, they managed to erect these huge monuments. In my opinion, the Axum obelisks should be one of the “seven wonders of the world.” Editor’s note: web search “Axum obelisk” or go to: www.ethioembassy.org.uk/tourism/tourism.htm

Another historical place not far from Axum is Lalibela. This small city, named for King Lalibela, is very fascinating. The main attraction in the city is seven churches that were each carved out of one rock, and connected by tunnels. These churches were completed in 1103 and are one of the most visited attractions in Ethiopia, especially on holidays. As I was visiting the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, I was so puzzled and kept on wondering about the contrast between the modern Ethiopia and the innovative Ethiopia of ancient times. I believe the Ethiopians who made these churches were way ahead of their time. The way the buildings are constructed with perfect angles and corners—and from one rock—is astonishing. The paintings on the walls, relief style figures carved out of the same rock. I was so impressed. All I could say was, “WOW!” The rock used was granite, and as you know, this rock is not as soft as soapstone or sandstone. It is so amazing to see such wonderful work was completed in 23 years without any modern tools. The best way to understand our amazement is to visit Lalibela and experience it firsthand.

Another place we visited was Gondar, the ancient capital city of Ethiopia. Gondar also has a rich history and is known for Fassil’s Castle, which was completed in 1623. Nearby, we went to visit the town where the black Jews of Ethiopia (or Falasha) used to live. As you might recall, most of the Falasha were airlifted to Israel in 1989. Nevertheless, their synagogue and their handicrafts are still there. Another notable experience we had was visiting Lake Tana, the source of the Nile River.

Every place we went, we were touched by the generosity and kindness of the many people we met. Some were close relatives I hadn’t seen for more than 20 years, and others were friends we made on our journey to the historical cities I have mentioned or in the ever-changing capital city of Addis Ababa.

We brought back with us many memories of our nearly month-long journey to Zimbabwe and Ethiopia. If you decide to visit either of these countries, we will be more than happy to assist you in any way we can. You may contact us by phone: 206-592-0458 or by email at: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

New Orleans: The Beautiful and The Stricken - Nov/Dec 2006

Details: Created: Wednesday, 01 November 2006 22:17

I took a trip to New Orleans this last May. The trip had been planed for the month before Katrina hit last year. I had never been to New Orleans, and was looking forward to all that the city was known to offer. The mother of one of the two friends I traveled with lives there and was there when the storm hit. Luckily she only got about 6 inches of water in her house and a bit of wind damage. Still, it had to be refurbished, replacing rotting wood, damaged furniture and appliances. With the water being there so long, the stench in the neighborhood was terrible. The flood waters brought toxic chemicals, sewage, and much that had decayed, including such neighborly critters as alligators, fish and snakes.

Driving around, we could see how high the water had risen in various parts of the city. Devastation and ruin were everywhere, giving one an eerie and ghostly feeling. The pictures on TV and in the newspapers hadn’t come close to showing the reality of the horror. The florescent colored tags tacked on every building, with the date it had been checked for people – alive or dead - gave the streets a surreal look, especially since some believed there were bodies not yet found.

I’m guessing that about 25% of the businesses were open. Help Wanted signs were everywhere, though few were being answered because there is no place to live. The hotels had cut back in staff and amenities, and restaurants offered a limited number of dishes.

And yet, even here, even now, there were things to enjoy. The people were very friendly and helpful. Southern hospitality was still alive there. Strolling through the French Quarter, we heard music everywhere. There was a homeless trumpeter in the park, trios and bands played jazz on every street corner. We saw street artists, mimes, and mule drawn carriages. All of this exuberance and joy made one almost forget the disaster that had knocked the great city of New Orleans to its knees.

Amid the wreckage and the rebuilding, I stumbled on to two interesting sculptures. The first is a large Carrara marble sculpture, carved in l991 by Robert Schoen. It is an 18 foot high man, standing on the river’s promenade. The inscription reads:

Old Man River/A man with a Past

Arms reach empty handed/God to a city in love

With water.

The other sculpture I found difficult to walk away from. I had to ditch my companions so I could return to stare. It was F.A. Lessandrini’s Monument to the Immigration. One has to wonder how it was ever envisioned, planned, carved, and moved. Standing about 30 feet high it was truly monumental. The way the angel is leaping up from the immigrants is a wonderful portrayal of spirit – spirit that is still alive in New Orleans as it diligently works toward its rebirth.

We ended our trip having found out that there is still much to enjoy in this place of so much devastation, so much sadness. And we were glad to have contributed a few dollars to the local economy. Of course, we want to go again to this marvelous city. For New Orleans is a city whose street corners are, in spite of it all, still busy with happy crowds making their joyful music – a tribute to its undying spirit.