Content
Event Booking
Web Links
Contacts
Tags
Categories
News Feeds
Search - K2

Thoughts & Opinions

No Pressure Compressor Buying - March/Apr 2008

Ed Note: You may remember a question that circulated on the NWSSA email asking about power, tank size and general information by someone wanting to buy an air compressor. In case you didn’t write down all the good information Ken Barnes gave in his reply, here’s your hard copy.

 

CFM (cubic feet per minute) is the key. I wouldn't worry about psi (pounds per square inch), since they will all supply more than you need and you will have to dial them down a bit to the 65 or so recommended for air hammers. You can look at the tool manual to see what cfm they recommend, but I would guess that it is less than 8. In my experience I would guess that you could get by with a 3 hp (horse power) compressor, although cfm should be the real thing you look at. You will note that the compressors sold in the Home Depots of the world use "peak" hp, which is based upon the current they draw upon startup and is just a marketing thing to make their machines look twice as strong as they really are. The real hp they use will be about half of their "peak" hp. On the other hand, if you are buying a real industrial compressor the hp will be accurately rated. The formula for checking is amps times volts times the motor efficiency divided by 746 to get real hp (you can use about 95% for efficiency and get close enough).

 

A larger tank helps to buffer the demand, and lets you run a smaller motor. For example, if you have a large tank, are putting out 5 cfm but using 6 cfm, the tank will be able to supply you enough as long as you are not running the hammer about 20% of the time. If your motor can supply enough cfm for your use then technically you could do without a tank entirely, although it is nice to have at least a small one.

 

The consumer versions typically run their motors at double speed to get more cfm out of a smaller motor, which makes it much louder and wears it out more quickly. However, if you are like most of us and are not using this 8 hours per day 5 days a week the cheapness of the consumer versions more than offsets the loudness and falling apart factors, because it will still last several years or more.

Book Review: Direct Stone Sculpture - March/Apr 2008

When I began sculpting stone in the late 1990’s, several seasoned sculptors recommended Liebson’s book to me for additional guidance. I found the book to be most helpful and it has occupied a prominent spot on my bookshelf since. Particularly with the growing number of new NWWSA members in mind, I decided that Liebson’s book would be appropriate to review to inaugurate this column.

As for many of our members, stone sculpture was a second career for Liebson. After attaining success in business, he took up painting and then moved on to stone sculpture where he has received a good deal of recognition. For many years he has taught direct stone sculpture at Mercer County College, Artworks (The Visual Art School of Princeton), and the Clearbrook Community Association; all in New Jersey.

 

Direct Stone Sculpture begins with a photographic overview of early 20th century stone sculpture, which includes work by Rodin, Modigliani, Brancusi, and others. A latter chapter features more recent work by artists such as Arp, Noguchi, Moore, and Rivera.

 

The instructional chapters cover stone essentials, the use of basic tools, direct carving, power tools, advanced techniques, and marketing. The book closes with a bibliography, suggested readings list, and a list of suppliers (mostly from the East coast).

 

Liebson’s extensive teaching experience is well reflected in his writing. His instructions and advice are clear and concise, and he does not hesitate to offer his opinions derived from his years of practice. Throughout the book, his commentary is supplemented with numerous helpful photos and illustrations. Although he does include a relatively short, basic chapter on power tools, he makes it very obvious that he feels that the mastery of hand tools is of the utmost importance to the beginning sculptor.

 

For this reason, while advanced, power carvers may certainly learn some important “tricks of the trade” from the book, they might be better served by attending some of Dan Michael’s excellent power tool workshops at one of NWSSA’s symposia.

 

The only significant difference between the two editions of this book is the inclusion of a chapter in the second edition on the work of some of Liebson’s students. The photos of these works, as well as those of the author, offer a variety of forms that should stimulate the imagination.

 

I recommend this fine “how-to-do-it” book for your serious consideration. I think you will find it to be a valuable addition to your bag of tools.

Reg Akright Honored - March/Apr 2008

The Snohomish Arts Council, headquartered in the historic Monte Cristo Building in Everett began, in l994, choosing one artist per year that they especially honor. This person is selected for the artistic merit of her/his works and also for supporting the artistic community as well as for actions and services in the art supporting communities.

 

Our own member, also know as Mr. Nice Guy (which he truly is), Reginald Akright has been chosen as 2008’s artist of the Year for Snohomish County, a large county with oodles of artists in it. Reg was on the Snohomish Arts Council for a number of years, made some public art for the City of Everett and is a busy member of the Everett Cultural Commission.

 

On February 23rd, during the annual H'Arts Auction of the Snohomish Arts Council, this happy choice was publicly announced. We all heartily congratulate you, Reg. The honor is well deserved.

 

And you should still have time to check out Reg’s solo, Artist of the Year show of his sculptures at the Monte Cristo Gallery in Everett continuing March 13 through April 17. For further details go to: www.artscouncilofsnoco.org and click on Gallery at the top of the page.